600 Ct Acrylic Poker Chip Case - Claysmith Gaming

poker chips in acrylic case

poker chips in acrylic case - win

Poker Chip Sets - Essential to The Poker Experience

Poker is a popular card game across the world with the excitement of gambling and potential for huge payoffs. Almost integral to the poker game are the poker chips, and indeed poker does not feel like poker without poker chip sets.
The chips are small discs of various colors representing different denominations, meant as substitutes for real money, which is instead stored in a more secure place. The use of money substitutes, or token money, can be traced back through the 13th to 17th centuries in Europe. Today poker chips are often made according to themes and formats that unite a particular set of chips. This is useful in avoiding counterfeiters, even for games at home or in private.
Casino chips use many different anti-counterfeiting measures, with the most basic being chip coloration and embossed or molded patterning. Holographic inlays, distinctive colored markings on the edges and ultraviolet markings on the inlays further deter potential counterfeiters. Lastly, Radio Frequency Identification or RFID tags are used by some establishments. The latter method can be quite costly, but the establishments that use them feel the cost is justified. Given the difficulty in counterfeiting chips, poker chip frauds in casinos are rare.
If you plan to play in private though, you should be careful of frauds, especially if you are using mass-produced chips. Another reason for these security measures is to identify which casinos they came from. This is usually not a problem, since casinos usually honor only their own chips and it is more of a matter of branding. In Nevada however, casinos are permitted to honor chips from other casinos, and these identifiers make returning chips to the casinos they belong to easier.
Poker Chip Sets - Composition and Coloration
Authentic casino poker chips are made of clay, though not pure clay which is too soft. Special composite mixtures have been made, using trade-secret techniques, the confidential nature of which is yet another speed bump on the counterfeiter's path. Sometimes, special edition poker chip sets may be bought from casinos, though generally poker chips stay in the casinos. Poker chips made for home use on the other hand may or may not be of the same quality as their casino counterparts.
For home use poker chips, ceramic and ABS plastic are the most common materials. When ceramic is used, special compositions allow them to approximate the feel of real clay while maintaining a lower price profile. Ceramic chips are also used in some casinos. ABS plastic chips on the other hand may be molded with a metal disk or slug inside, to give them some heft. For those in Europe, poker chips may come in mother of pearl, which gives them an incomparable sheen and luster. Coloration is standard for different denominations in one set, but may differ across sets. For example, in some places there are standard coloration schemes for chips, while in others there are none. Of note is the US State of Nevada, where casinos are given free rein on their chip designs and colors.
Poker Chip Sets - Sets and Themes
Since poker games often involve large amounts of money, a large number of chips are needed. Standard sets have 300 pieces, while others can have 500 pieces, and yet others reaching a stunning 1000 pieces. Some casinos sell poker chips similar to those used on the floor but with a few differences for identification purposes. This is great for those who want to emulate the feel of their favorite places of gambling at home games. Limited edition sets can be highly collectible, and there is a thriving community of poker chip collectors.
Many of the poker chips are traded via eBay, and the most special ones can go for thousands of US dollars, regardless of face value. Whole sets of these special poker chips can cost even more than the individual pieces. What really ties the members of all poker chip sets together is the design of the chips. Poker chips in one set are often of identical sizes, of consistent coloration, and having similar inlays. Colors and inlays vary according to denomination, but the idea is that chips from one set are identifiably from the very same set.
The edges and rims may also be embossed with characteristic patterns and even have colored sections made via special multi stage molding techniques. The designs may be simple and straight forward, just simple chips with numbers. They could just as well be whimsical, like having humorous or otherwise interesting prints on the inlays. A set of poker chips will often be packaged in a poker chip case or some such container such as an acrylic poker chip carrier or humidor style wooden poker chip case, in the tradition followed in casinos worldwide. One would suppose that if you are going for the authentic feel, then there's no point skimping on the little details.
Poker Chip Sets - Elements of Authenticity
Poker chips are essential to playing poker. One can "play" poker without them, but it will not feel like poker without the chips would it? It is the feel of these poker chips that gives a tactile sense of authenticity. The clink of these poker chips as they hit the table and trade hands adds to the ambiance. The nature of these poker chips ensures that no one can weasel out of the bet that they placed, so it ensures a fair game as far as bets are concerned. Speaking of amounts, the printed or inlaid values may vary depending on where you buy your poker chip sets.
submitted by Ozone21337 to hsarangkiucominfo [link] [comments]

Poker Chip Storage, Security and Transport: Function or Style

The last thing that you want to be doing when you have the gang coming over for a game Texas Holdem Poker is to be looking through drawers and cupboards to try to find your poker supplies. Your poker supplies should be organized and easily accessible so that they ready to go whenever you need them. In order to ensure this immediate availability they should stored in a container that allows for secure, organized and easily accessible storage. The obvious solution to this problem is a poker chip carrying case designed specifically for this purpose.
The primary purposes of the poker chip case are storage, security and transportability. These purposes relate to functionality and style. Obviously having chips stored in a container that provides a certain amount of order and security is much better than keeping them in a bag, a box or lying around loose. Poker cases have several different compartments to facilitate the orderly storage of your poker supplies. These compartments include poker chip trays that organize your chips by denomination or color, generally in columns of 50 chips. Poker chip cases have varying storage capacities ranging from 100 to 1000 chips. The poker case usually has a storage compartment for playing cards that will typically accommodate two decks of cards. In most instances, there will also be a compartment for the storage of smaller items like the dealer and blind buttons or dice. In more exotic poker cases you may find specialized compartments for stylish items such as cigars.
Security is another important aspect of owning a poker chip case. Security is basically preventing unwanted or undesired access to the poker supplies. This can be accomplished by placing the poker case in a locked drawer or cupboard or by the security hardware that is incorporated into its design. Many poker cases have locks. Most cases have simple, basic locks for those individuals who are only concerned about functionality. For some individuals, the poker case is an investment or a furniture item, the design and composition of the lock and other hardware may be a more serious style consideration. These individuals may desire chip cases that may have locks, handles and hinges made of brass or other precious materials.
The third major purpose of the poker chip case is transportability. The vast majority of cases have carrying hardware. For smaller capacity cases, this hardware will be a handle. For larger capacity chip cases, the hardware can be a handle plus wheels for pulling or pushing with a design similar to rolling suitcases. Transportability is all a matter of what you actually require.
The construction material used for the outside of the poker case very much relates to function and style. If your requirements are simple, that is, you want a case that is durable and provides easy access plus allows you to take your poker supplies to other locations to play poker, then a basic aluminum, wooden or vinyl case will meet both your function and style needs. If you use your poker chips more frequently, in large numbers at multi-table poker events, then you will require an acrylic or aluminum, generally cube shaped, poker chip carrier. The serious, more sophisticated poker player with a permanent home poker room or with one or more sets of expensive clay or classic chips may require cases that have elegance and class to better reflect his personal preferences and style. This person may want beautifully crafted poker chip cases made from exotic materials such as oak, maple, mahogany or leather. They may even include a compartment for his cigars. He may also want a poker case with a clear top that will allow him to display his poker chips in his home poker game room.
It is up to the individual to decide which is more important function or style. For the poker player who has very basic requirements that is storage, security and transportability then there is a large selection of lower price poker chip cases available from which to choose. If style is important, then there are more exotic poker case options available that provide the same three basic functions but at a higher price tag. It's simply a matter of personal preference and/or financial means.
submitted by Ozone21337 to csarangkiucominfo [link] [comments]

TUTORIAL: Mounting Two-Sided Flimsy Boards

TUTORIAL: Mounting Two-Sided Flimsy Boards
Several weeks ago I posted this tutorial on how to mount flimsy cardstock player boards to chipboard to help them match the look and feel of other board game components. I included some instruction therein on how to make and mount artwork backings to those boards, and offhandedly mentioned the same process could be use to mount/make double-sided player boards.
That wasn’t enough information, though. People had a lot of questions about how I do double-sided boards, and a lot of comments trying to extrapolate the process that didn’t quite hit the mark. So, I figured I’d sit down and make a separate tutorial for that process.
Bear in mind: Much of this process is close to, if not identical, the “Mounting Flimsy Boards to Chipboard” tutorial, so if you’ve read/followed that post, a lot of this will be repetition for you. But if you want to do double-sided boards in the future, I suggest following this tutorial all the way through so you can internalize the differences.
I will also reiterate: this is a purely aesthetic upgrade! We’re not creating dual-layered, recessed boards here. We’re just making nicer player boards so those of us who have a problem with component inconsistency or feel card-stock boards come across as cheap can rectify that production decision.

MATERIALS NEEDED

A Note About Corner Punches: Most craft punches, like the ones made by Fiskars, will not cut chipboard. The one I link to above is, in my experience, the best option for rounding the corners on chipboard components. Wargamers have been using Oregon Lamination corner punches for decades to smooth out the corners on the chits for hex-and-counter games, and they're right on the money. These punches are amazing. Accept no substitutes.
With single-sided boards, I’ll typically just mount the included game board to chipboard and call it a day. With double-sided boards, however, I prefer to scan both sides of the board and print new copies. There are a lot of ways this process can go just slightly sideways, and having printed scans allows me more leeway for mistakes.
I won’t go into details about scanning boards and all the fiddly bits involved with that. You’ll have to be comfortable with print resolutions, possible color and/or size corrections, and graphics software that will allow you to make the boards look as nice as possible. I’m not the right person to teach those skills, so I’m going to limit my instruction on this point to:
Scan both sides of the board you wish to mount and print off the copies on a high-quality color printer using nice linen-finish paper. I have an older Canon Pro 9000 MkII printer, and I print on Neenah Paper’s CLASSIC Linen Digital in Avalanche White. The linen finish adds a nice texture to the board and feels nice to the touch. It’s a good aesthetic choice for game boards.

MOUNTING AND CUTTING THE “FRONT” OF THE BOARD

Take your print of the front side of your boards – in my case I’m using the boards from Century: A New World, so the “front” for the purposes of this tutorial are all the “1” sides of each board (A1, B1, etc.).
Trim away most of the excess paper around the print, but leave a small white border around your board (about ¼ inch).
https://preview.redd.it/1fsmgba248m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=114ed49648f61e0dac02fe6753707a8fde5f26a4
Then, flip that image over and apply a generous amount of spray adhesive to the back. Don’t spray the chipboard in this step – always do the “front” board image.
Lay the image, glue side down (duh), on a chipboard sheet. I suggest AGAINST trying to align the edge of the board with the chipboard; that way lies madness. It’s easier to just drop the board onto the chipboard and trim away the excess, and it will produce cleaner results.
https://preview.redd.it/ymyy4b3448m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=17619febf204038db933aa40afe89cc498d924c5
The first thing you’ll want to do before cutting is look at your image and determine which edges would be best to trim a little off. Find the sides that don’t have any play information or are close to board elements.
We’ll start by cutting the sides that can’t be trimmed.
Place the glued board onto a cutting mat (don’t cut over a surface you don’t want marred), and align your ruler with one side of the image, as tightly to the edge of the images as you can.
https://preview.redd.it/lph8o30648m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa4e0e88fe7e05bdd4e66ed1c51e96c9ecfeb477
Put pressure on the ruler so it doesn’t move, then cut away the excess chipboard.
https://preview.redd.it/b57fcm7748m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a00c1a783c2926f7aafb2194e451fc6ab38dd4d
Important Note on Cutting: Do not try to cut through the chipboard in one cut. You’ll dull your blade faster and generally end up with a rougher edge. Use firm but not hard pressure and cut through the board in multiple passes. With a new, very sharp blade, It’ll usually take 2-3 passes. As the blade dulls over time it may take up to 5-6 passes, but be patient and don’t try to force it. The final product will look nicer if you take your time.
Repeat this process for one other side of the board, again aligning the ruler as tightly as possible to the image edge.
https://preview.redd.it/27mckmp848m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77d7927c3221b675d43252923d53d5db88fe5a6a
Here’s where the process diverges from mounting single-sided boards a little bit. For these cuts, we’re going to be trimming away a small – very small – amount of the actual board image so that the resulting board is about 1mm (or less) smaller in both directions than the back-side image we’ll be mounting it to.
NOTE: I had several people tell me there are better ways to do this, suggesting things like content-aware fill and other methods. Their reasoning is that trimming some of the image away means you’ll potentially be cutting off usable parts of the board you’re mounting. I assure you it’s just not true. We’re talking about making the boards less than 1mm smaller, and you’ll be purposely trimming away useless bits.
If you understand what content-aware fill is and have access to the software to implement it, then you don’t need my help making things like this. I, for one, do not have access to more advanced features like that, and I’m trying to tailor these tutorials for as many people as possible. So, for this tutorial, I’m telling you to trim a little bit of the image away.
For the other two sides of the board, align your ruler about 1mm into the artwork from the edge (the amount does not need to be super precise, as long as your alignment is).
https://preview.redd.it/0vu2pdga48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1351f921bd8712d4c743f6ede0b11aadf93ee70b
The cut away the two leftover sides, eliminating all the excess chipboard.
https://preview.redd.it/auyrk2qb48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b7e8749bb3d9d1b881ba439f21d15edd704cd2e

MOUNTING THE BACK-SIDE IMAGE

Now that you’ve mounted and cut the front side of your board, what you should have is a board that is very slightly smaller than your back-side image.
If you have a light box, you can skip the next couple of steps if you so choose, because you can use the light box to do your alignment. I, however, prefer to draw guide lines on the back of each board anyway, because for me it makes aligning the boards easier.
With a light box or a window, lay your back-side image face down on so you can see the image through the paper and mark the edges of the image. Then, use those marks to draw lines on the back of the print to mark the edges of the image, like this:
https://preview.redd.it/5mpt8o4e48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c428d28485690599bf7763ff0cda078e8b59dd05
This way, you’ll be able to line up the placement of your board for the next step.
Apply a generous layer of spray adhesive to the back (blank) side of your already mounted board, then, using either the light box or the marked lines from the last step, place the board glue side down (duh) onto the back.
https://preview.redd.it/zyj0iyof48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87842b9ed61b44b5e93bee19cb2b9de960717676
https://preview.redd.it/dnanzw7h48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53c6574c73d7fa9fb510dfa0ea88caa3b17c91db
Place your mounted board onto a cutting mat and align your metal ruler with the edge of the board.
https://preview.redd.it/zhygm23j48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=947942f068c251943c05d1cb5c437c87505cfd1a
Use your xActo knife to cut away the excess paper, making sure the blade lines up exactly with the edge of the chipboard.
https://preview.redd.it/neu43cck48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30b60d4e00b3a739edf3673622b774d35c8a11c7
The reason we use a metal ruler in this step is to ensure the xActo blade doesn’t accidentally bite into the edge of the chipboard and unintentionally carve away a section of your board. Again, when cutting, use firm but not hard pressure. Even if it takes two cuts to get through the paper (it shouldn’t with a sharp blade) it’s worth going slow.
https://preview.redd.it/49s9nl7m48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c3606c96b32d3ae1c08762669a9dcec03087824
Then, repeat the process for all four sides.
https://preview.redd.it/knz7g66n48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3fe753220a3260dfe4f42523e387eff2470144a7

APPLYING FINISH

With normal linen paper like this, you’ll need to apply a few coats of varnish to ensure the ink doesn’t peel, fade, or become marked. Spray one side of the board with acrylic sealer in fine, light coats, waiting about 15-20 minutes between coats, until you’ve built up a nice surface.
https://preview.redd.it/w49u18to48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e06b46a19f5de0e7bf9d143071607a09722cdfe6
Once the varnish on the front side is dry, flip the boards over and do the same for the backs.
DON’T try to shortcut this process by spraying a single heavy coat! A heavy coat of sealant will create a blotchy effect and can potentially soak through your linen paper and undermine the adhesive underneath.
Acrylic varnish will help bring out the colors on the board as well as protecting the ink from damage. I really like the way the finished boards look.
https://preview.redd.it/ikhdmmzq48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bb2b0b767e082f235d78220199e731b1c5d0d1ca
And you’re done! Well… maybe.
Unless you want to round the corners of the board for aesthetic purposes, that is.

PUNCHING THE CORNERS (OPTIONAL)

As I mentioned at the start, you’ll want a good, heavy-duty corner rounder for this step. The only ones I’ve found that truly work consistently and make nice, smooth cuts are the punches from Oregon Lamination. The link above will take you to the exact punch I use.
This step is easy: Slide the corners of your finished board into the punch and squeeze. That’s it.
https://preview.redd.it/rrlf1das48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=172fbca0b23ba48c1d0953e69e107fb98627aaf6
This will produce a nice, rounded edge to your boards that, in my personal opinion, is much more aesthetically pleasing than squared corners.
https://preview.redd.it/63dfzrkt48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d2859866c3a8f7ee7e65db3185c48562edd0a76
This also helps prevent the corners from getting damaged in storage or if you drop a board.

THE FINISHED PRODUCT

Now, you can replace your thin, flimsy, card-stock boards…
https://preview.redd.it/9tqj4bou48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b133d5f423c63631fcda187c7af63816ba590cb0
…with nice, mounted, double-sided boards that match the look and feel of the other mounted board game components!
https://preview.redd.it/um2op7ov48m31.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=72254aa8d595de154b79b75f86500adc495e0249
I love this particular upgrade. It really bugs me when companies use card-stock for player or central boards in games. It always feels cheap to me, and I love upgrading them like this. I just flat like the final result better than simple card-stock boards.
Feel free to let me know if you have any questions. I’d love to see your results if you follow this tutorial for your own player boards. Happy gaming!
NOTE: Although I post a lot of the custom artwork for the various boxes and poker chips (and one playmat) I’ve made, I will not post scanned artwork for game boards. There is too much risk of pirating/counterfeiting in that instance. If you want to do this, you’ll have to scan your own boards to make it happen. Sorry not sorry.
submitted by PixelartMeeple to boardgames [link] [comments]

[US-CA] [H] GH60 Anodized Aluminum CNC Case for 60% Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Compatible YD60 XD64 XD60 DZ60 Pok3r [W] Paypal

Asking $50 Shipped CONUS. It weighs 2.4 lbs. Has a small chip in the acrylic on the bottom right hand corner of the acrylic sandwich but does not affect the keyboard or the light diffusion. This case is for the DZ60 or the ACR60. Should fit all the keyboards up in the title.
This is not compatible with ​the New Poker 2 with Type C and RGB Poker 3 RGB.
https://i.imgur.com/VeApPaW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Pun6DIy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Gos3BRx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u7ujxXS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aNM9Sfo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Cmm1Odn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/F6HoxCl.jpg
This is the case on AliExpress. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GH60-Anodized-Aluminum-CNC-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Compatible-YD60-XD64-XD60-DZ60-Pok332852004850.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.50d34c4d9GMVaj
submitted by fileid to mechmarket [link] [comments]

[US-AL][H] K-Type Halo True, DSA Dolch, Ice Caps, CF-LX, Cheap Project FaceW 60% [W] Paypal

Trading in some stuff for a TV. All prices include shipping to CONUS. I'll consider shipping to Canada but you'll have to pay the difference.
Group Timestamp
Item Description Timestamp Price
K-Type Practically new K-Type with Halo Trues. Used 30 minutes and taken out of the box a few times to show off the light show. Wasn't a huge fan of the halo trues. Comes with original accessories. Stabs have not been modified. here $210 SOLD
60% FaceW Sprit FaceW PCB with R1 65g stickered, lubed, and sip'd with white 2x3x4 LEDs. Black poker case and anodized aluminum plate. Black PBT DSA Keycaps included with some purple dsa extras. I lost the extra case screws but the hex key will be included. I did not solder this board well. Sip sockets are soldered at poor angles All chattering has been fixed. There is occasional flickering of the LED under the 'I' key, but I cannot seem to fix it even though I've resoldered/reseated the switch multiple times. There is some warping of the plate around the right Alt/Win/Fn/Ctrl cluster, a gouge in the aluminum case and a slight chip in the anodizing. Note that this keyboard is not compatible with thick cherry profile caps because of the 2x3x4 LEDs. This board has issues, but is functional. Sold AS-IS. Please see the timestamp album for detailed pictures. All the parts together was around 170. here $75
CF-LX 60% Case Carbon fiber 60% sandwich case from this groupbuy. Comes with black + translucent + black acrylic mid pieces. Paid 124 + 10 + shipping for this and waited two years. Sadly I don't need it anymore. This case rocks when assembled without rubber feet. Would recommend getting some sorbothane feet. here $100
Ice caps - TKL SP Ice caps that I used consistently for about a month. No visible shine, but has some dust. here $68 SOLD
DSA Dolch Bought from another mechmarket user. No visible shine. Comes with gamer set and the red escape. too lazy to lay it out $68
Please comment before PMing etc. etc. :)
Edit: Willing to split the K-Type into switches and board separately. Please PM me if interested in just the K-Type without switches.
submitted by VentureGunpla to mechmarket [link] [comments]

[US-AL][H]Black VEA 65g Zealios w/ Tenting Stand, 60% FaceW 65g Zealios, CF-LX 60% Carbon Fiber Case [W] Paypal

Exchanging keyboard stuff for cash.
Timestamp: here
Timestamp album + detailed pics: here
All prices USD including paypal feeds and shipping to the continental US. I may consider shipping to Canada but you will pay the difference in shipping cost.
Item Description Price
VE.A w/ Tenting Stand Black VE.A with black plate and Massdrop 65g Zealios (coincided with R2 zeals unfortunately). The Zeals are lubed with Krytox 105, polycarb flimed (like stickers but not sticky), and SIP socketed. Note that the SIP sockets are not soldered. The SIP sockets rattle when the keyboard is shaken, but not during normal typing. There are a few scratches on the tenting stand and one scratch on the polished VEA name-plates. The VEA name-plates also each have a single, small burr on one corner. The three lock LEDs next to the VE.A logo were soldered with white 1.8mm LEDs. Will come with original usb and sata cord. Will not come with hex key for the tenting stand OR keycaps. I used this keyboard lightly for two weeks before realizing I'm too poor of a typist to get used to it. Please see the timestamp album for more detailed pictures. ~$800~ SOLD
60% FaceW Sprit FaceW PCB with R1 65g stickered, lubed, and sip'd with white 2x3x4 LEDs. Black poker case and anodized aluminum plate. Black PBT DSA Keycaps included with some purple dsa extras. I lost the extra case screws but the hex key will be included. I did not solder this board well. Sip sockets are soldered at poor angles All chattering has been fixed. There is occasional flickering of the LED under the 'I' key, but I cannot seem to fix it even though I've resoldered/reseated the switch multiple times. There is some warping of the plate around the right Alt/Win/Fn/Ctrl cluster, a gouge in the aluminum case and a slight chip in the anodizing. Note that this keyboard is not compatible with thick cherry profile caps because of the 2x3x4 LEDs. This board has issues. Sold AS-IS. Please see the timestamp album for detailed pictures. $100
CF-LX 60% Case Carbon fiber 60% sandwich case from this groupbuy. Comes with black + white + black acrylic mid pieces. Midpiece is opaque so no side glow :(. Paid 124 + 10 + shipping for this and waited two years. Sadly I don't need it anymore. This case rocks when assembled without rubber feet. I'm including some small ones but they may not stabilize the case. Would recommend getting some sorbothane feet anyway. $120
Hopefully the descriptions and pictures are enough to alleviate any concerns, but please comment with questions. Also the timestamp has DSA dolch in it but I can't seem to find the red escape key so I'll hold on to that until I can find it.
Edit: Will take price or best offer. Not FCFS. Will be picking the best offer from the most reputable person. Transactions done through Paypal invoicing only. Not interested in trades except perhaps for GMK stormtrooper.
submitted by VentureGunpla to mechmarket [link] [comments]

[COMC] New shelves for my old collection

After a long wait... months of storage, days of painting (not enough space to leave multiple painted shelves to dry), professional installers and then a couple of coats of varnish: I have my 3 meter shelves on the wall!
http://imgur.com/a/vTttN
Two of them are for my games and game-related items, the others will serve for books, DVDs, magazines and various household items.
Important items not visible at this angle: 1856, Labyrinth: The War on Terror, Bazar Bizarre Ultime, Diamant, all the Age of Industry explansions, the Age of Steam expansion map box is filled to the brim (could be used as a weapon) and so is the Power Grid box.
The poker chips that are visible in the acrylic holders are the left-over from the poker chip case that I take out to play games like AoI, AoS and PG.
Organization: 18xx, war games, everything else that doesn't fit into the previous or following categories, cooperative, abstract, small card games and party games.
submitted by AlejandroMP to boardgames [link] [comments]

[US-MA] [H] HHKB black on black, VA68M RGB Gateron Brown, RS84 62g Zealios, Keycaps [W] Paypal, Carbon SA

Thinning the herd now with a couple kits arriving in the mail.
timestamp album links: http://imgur.com/a/FgvcQ http://imgur.com/a/DE2HI
Redscarf 84, 62g Zealios - http://imgur.com/c3pCbZY - I have two DIY kits with zealios in the mail and just am not a fan of the acrylic bottom case. Fully programmable, plate allows switch top removal, comes with remote for underglow that didn't make it into the picture. Two of the standoffs were chipped in shipping from the original owner and won't hold screws, but the board still sits solidly on the other eight (pic: http://imgur.com/T0IL46W). I'm going to ask much less than what I paid for it because of that. $260 shipped.
HHKB black printed - http://imgur.com/DKR1u2s - I started with plate mounted topre and that spoiled my HHKB experience. Comes with cable, manual, original box, hardly used. 3-2016 manufacture http://imgur.com/miHipWy - $180 shipped. SOLD
Varmilo VA68M RGB Gateron Brown - http://imgur.com/4y689JX - This was my first RGB board and it's a real treat. I just can't justify keeping it with everything else around. Aluminum case, great caps, smooth stabs, looking to get what I paid for it. $180 shipped.
Poker 2 stock white thick PBT lasered keycaps, PBT Doubleshot RGB mods - http://imgur.com/wDatNSm - These are pretty nice, just don't have a use for them anymore. Asking $35 shipped for just the Poker caps, $15 for just the mods, $45 for the set.
Stock Novatouch caps - http://imgur.com/gquGquU - These are honestly some of the worst caps I have ever felt. They are inoffensive and may look slightly better than some stock sets and fit a standard TKL layout, so if one of you poor souls out there wants them, you can have them for free if you pay the shipping. SOLD
I'm not interested in artisans or more boards, but Carbon SA is my white whale. I would be happy to work a deal for something listed here, cash, or other boards/GMK sets in my collection, so PM me!
I'm headed to bed and will reply in the morning.
submitted by magic_duckie to mechmarket [link] [comments]

[WTS][USA]ErgoDox Classic, ErgoClear, PBT DSA

I built an ErgoDox from a MassDrop kit, and found that while I loved using it, I can't have one at work due to shared space, and found the switch between having a 'Dox at home and a standard keyboard at work was too difficult.
Unfortunately, this means I have to sell my 'Dox. It was a fun project, but I really just can't justify using it.
First up, here's a picture
Some points on construction:
Some notes on sending it out:
'MSRP' Pricing:
'MSRP' Price: $311
Asking Price: $275 (OBO) + Shipping Paypal preferred payment.
I also have a Davinci 200-chip case which can fit the board (One side flipped upsidedown) and cables comfortably. I've added padding to make it a snug, safe fit. Add 10 for it, if you want it.
submitted by SearingPhoenix to mechmarket [link] [comments]

Poker Chips for MTG Counters | Action Chips

Back This Project At https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1716033623/poker-chips-for-mtg-counters-action-chips/description
About this project
Action Chips
These are custom poker chips that I have created through a poker chip company. What the chips do is help create a more visual playing field for Magic: The Gathering as well as bring poker chips to the Magic table to shuffle while your opponent thinks of his or her next move.
The chips in the video are different from the ones in the description. Since the ones in the video were hard to read I decided to come up with a new, more visible, layout for the chips. They are in the picture below.
Why I Need The Campaign
Where I currently get my chips printed only prints the chips one-sided. Since the minimum order to get them double sided, at the appropriate cost per chip to ensure a good profit margin, is 10,000 chips. I need to raise at least $10,000 in order to make one design double sided. Since the +1/+1 Counters are the most popular, that chip will be the first to get the luxury of being double sided.
For each additional $10,000 that is raised another chip will be made double-sided. The order will go as follows:
$10,000 = +1/+1 Counter $20,000 = +5/+5 Counter $30,000 = Do Not Untap Chip $40,000+ = Backers Vote
+1/+1 Counter Chip
This chip is for placing +1/+1 counters on permanents, like Creatures and Planeswalkers. Once you have four and you need to put a fifth simply place the +5/+5 Counter on after removing the four you already have on.
+5/+5 Counter Chip
This chip, as explained above, is for when you already have four +1 counters on a permanent. Simply remove the four +1 counters and place this +5/+5 Counter on. This way you don't end up with a stack of 10 poker chips on one permanent.
Do Not Untap This chip is for consistency of the game. When Tidebinder Mage enters the battlefield and locks down your Siege Wurm you can place this chip on the Siege Wurm so you know not to untap it in your next untap step.
More Chips on the Way!
I have been thinking of other chips as well to create but don't want to invest money I don't have into them until I have a fully backed project.
Chips like:
Exiled Chip: This chip will be used to easily identify your exile pile.
Poison/Infect Chip: This chip will help you keep track of how much Infect a permanent or player has. This chip will also need a +5 Infect Chip to allow for easier counting for the opposing player.
Storage
When this campaign is successful I will be working with a poker chip case company to build appropriate cases for my customers to easily store and transport their chips.I currently use dice bags to get my chips from game to game, but I am sure there are other ways to transport them as well.
Ideas are as follows:
Why Back This Campaign?
As a backer you will receive a discount on my chips as they will retail for $2.00/chip. So what are you waiting for? Back this project and get some poker chips to use during your next MTG session!
Pro's
Con's
FAQ's
Q. They take up 1/3 of the card. Is there a way to make them smaller?
A. Since they are real poker chips, I can't, but it is not as big of a deal as you would think. I have been play testing these for months and neither my opponent nor me have been confused as to what the creature is or does.
Q. Do they damage the cards?
A. No, I've been using Dragon Shields during the play testing on my cards and have had no signs of damage to the cards. Just don't slam them down on the cards as that may cause damage.
Q. What weight are the chips?
A. 11.5 Grams
Risks and challenges
The biggest risk that I am taking is the fact that this is my first Kickstarter campaign and I'm not exactly sure how people are going to react to my new product.
I can imagine there will be a lot of challenges that I am unaware of, but I will do my best to overcome them as they come. I work hard to find solutions to problems.
Any questions you have about my product will be answered as quickly as possible. I take criticism very seriously and work with people to come up with the best product possible. I have a very open mind about everything so if you have an idea to improve the chips feel free to let me know.
submitted by MikeySlice to kickstarter [link] [comments]

poker chips in acrylic case video

Laser cutting a Poker Chip from acrylic - YouTube Adam Savage's Rounders Poker Chips and Case Replica ... Harley Davidson Flames Acrylic Poker Chip Set - YouTube Unboxing Yuanhe 1000 Chip Clear Acrylic Poker Chip Carrier ... Monte Carlo Poker Chip Set (500 count) - $150 - YouTube

Baoblaze 10 Pieces Poker Chips Tray Acrylic Case 100 Chips Container Organiser Holder for Party Casino Poker Card Games Supplies 4.9 out of 5 stars 5 £25.19 £ 25 . 19 The Milano pure clay poker chips were designed to replicate the look of the Bellagio Casino. The font and big denominations make it a great staple poker set for an avid player. This set comes with 1000 Milano Poker Chips and an Acrylic Carrier with 10 Chip Trays. The Scroll 10 Gram Ceramic Poker Chips measure 39mm in diameter and weigh 10 grams apiece. Made with ceramic, it is more durable than its clay counterparts and allows for direct printing which makes the designs last longer. About The Case: One 1000-Capacity Acrylic Poker Chip Carrier with Trays. This is our 14 Gram High Roller laser graphic poker chip set. This set includes 1000 clay composite casino grade poker chips in an acrylic case with 10pcs chips trays. This set also features a free dealer button and 2 decks of playing cards. There are seven denominations included in this set which are 300 $1's, 200 $5's, 200 $25's, 100 $50's, 100 High quality 16pcs Acrylic Transparent Poker Chips Case from China, China's leading Casino Game Accessories product market, With strict quality control Casino Game Accessories factories, Producing high quality 16pcs Acrylic Transparent Poker Chips Case products. GSE Games & Sports Expert 600pcs/1,000pcs Acrylic Poker Chip Case | Casino Acrylic Poker Chips Carrier with Poker Chip Trays. 4.6 out of 5 stars 49. $54.99 $ 54. 99. FREE Shipping by Amazon. Versa Games 500pc Deluxe Poker Chip Case in Gray Color - Reinforced, Strong, Sturdy Design. Scroll 10 Gram Poker Chips are 100% ceramic. Many casinos prefer ceramic poker chips. The Scroll features an elegant design with big denominations. They also contain denominations on the edges for easy counting. This set comes with 1000 chips and an Acrylic Carrier with 10 Chip Racks. Durable Acrylic Poker Chips Storage Box Carrier Case W/ 6 Trays Casino Parts. $65.21. Free shipping. Stackable Poker Card Game Chip Tray Acrylic Case Box 5 Rows/100 Chips. $8.47. Free shipping. Luckyermore 47” Poker Octagon Table Top 8 Player Chip Casino Game Bag Texas. $50.99. This heavy duty carrier is constructed of durable acrylic. The case has been reinforced in the corners and will hold (6) 100 ct. chip trays neatly stacked. The case opens from its center and a comfortable handle makes it easy to carry and move around. 14 Gram Monte Carlo Clay poker chips are available in a variety of acrylic cases ranging from 200, 600, and 1000 chip sizes. These 14 Gram Clay Poker Chips are high-quality chips that feature a one-of-a-kind edge design. The classy looking inlay contains the denomination and a cool laser graphic strip!

poker chips in acrylic case top

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Laser cutting a Poker Chip from acrylic - YouTube

This video should give you an idea of what to expect from a typical Monte Carlo poker chip set.https://www.bensound.com - Background Music Harley Davidson Flames Acrylic Poker Chip Set. Harley Davidson Flames Acrylic Poker Chip Set. This is just a quick video on what it looks like to laser etch and cut a poker chip. I used 2 passes on the etch to keep decent details, and then a single pa... One of Adam's favorite movies is Rounders, and he shares the story of his journey to replicate the poker chips as seen in the film. Recently, Adam was inspir... Yuanhe 1000 Chip Clear Acrylic Poker Chip Carrier-Includes 10 Chip Racks detail :PRICE SALE : US $70.99If you wanna buy Yuanhe 1000 Chip Clear Acrylic Poker ...

poker chips in acrylic case

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